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Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, Madrid


Exterior of the convent. Photo Creative Commons License Giovanna d'arco.


Facade of the convent at sunset. Photo Creative Commons License Ginger Nut Designs.

door
Wood doors of the convent. Photo Creative Commons License Begoña Valverde.

door detail
Closer look at the beautiful wood doors. Photo Creative Commons License JCuerva.

Cloister
View from above the cloisters. Photo: Wikipedia, under GFDL.



Madrid's Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales (Convent of the Royal Discalced Nuns) is a former Hapsburg monastery that is now a fascinating museum.

History

The convent was founded in 1559 by Joan of Austria, whose daughter hid away here rather than endure marriage to Felipe II. More aristocratic women soon followed, bringing their dowries with them. These dowries included such treasures as precious metals, paintings, and even religious relics. With all these possessions, the foundation soon became very wealthy.

By the mid-20th century, however, the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales was mostly home to poor women. It still held its priceless collection of treasures, but the nuns were forbidden to auction anything and were literally starving.

The state eventually intervened, with a special dispensation from the pope, and the convent was opened as a museum in 1960. In 1985, the European Council rated it "Museum of the Year."

What to See

The opening of the convent has provided a glimpse into what had long been a shuttered, mysterious presence in central Madrid. A handful of nuns still live here, growing their own vegetables in the garden.

The main attraction of the museum is, of couse, those precious dowries brought in by the aristocratic ladies who took the veil. Among them are reliquaries, one of which is said to contain pieces of the True Cross and another some of the bones of St. Sebastian.

Of the many priceless paintings on display, the most valuable is Titian's Caesar's Money. Other works shown in the Flemish Hall include those by Hans de Beken and Breughel the Elder. All of the convent's tapestries were based on Rubens's drawings, displaying his chubby matrons.

Quick Facts

Address: Plaza de las Descalzas Reales s/n, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91-542-00-59
Directions: From Plaza del Callao, off the Gran Vía, walk down Postigo de San Martín to Plaza de las Descalzas Reales; the convent is on the left
Bus: 1, 2, 5, 20, 46, 52, 53, 74, M1, M2, M3, or M5
Hours: Sat and Tues-Thurs 10:30am-12:30pm and 3-5:45pm; Fri 10:30am-12:30pm; Sun 11am-1:15pm
Cost: €4.80 adults, €2.40 children
Tours: A guided tour is required to see the exhibits; it is in Spanish only.

Sources

  1. Frommer's Madrid, 1st ed.

Location Map

Below is a location map and aerial view of the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales. Using the buttons on the left, zoom in for a closer look or zoom out to get your bearings. Click and drag the map to move around. For a larger view, see our Madrid Map or get our free Google Earth download.





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