Palenque 
Some of the monumental ruins of Palenque. Photo: Luis Reyes-Galindo.
Map of the Palenque ruins (click to enlarge). © Frommer's
Surrounded by a dense jungle forest in a dramatic mountain setting, Palenque is widely regarded as the most atmospheric and impressive of Mexico's Mayan ruins.
Palenque's monumental stone temples are famed for their architectural sophistication and fine sculptures, and are made even more interesting by the initimate knowledge of its history that archaeologists have recovered from its inscriptions.
History
People lived in this area as early as 300 BC, leaving behind pottery as evidence. But it was in the Mayan Classic Period (300-900 AD) that Palenque became an important ceremonial center. It peaked around 600 to 700 AD, when most of the temples of Palenque were built by King Pakal and his son Chan-Bahlum.
Known to the Mayans as Lakam Ha, "Big Water," Palenque was built in a supremely dramatic location, surrounded by mountains, rushing waterfalls, and dense forest. Unlike most other Mayan cities, Palenque enjoyed an abundance of water, which was controlled by means of an elaborate aqueduct system.
After years of rumors of a lost city in the jungle, the ruins were first visited in 1773 by the brother of the canon of the cathedral in San Cristobal de las Casas. In 1786, the Spanish monarchy ordered that the site be thoroughly searched for gold and treasures. This was done with the help of locals with pickaxes, and resulted in significant damage to the Palace.
When John Stephens first visited the site in the 1840s, the ruins were mostly still buried under centuries of accumulated earth and a thick canopy of jungle.
The main temples have been cleared, but the dense jungle still surrounds the site and covers unexcavated temples, which can be easily spotted beneath the foliage. It is estimated that less than 35% of this important ancient site has been excavated.
What to See
The impressive pyramid on the right of the site entrance is the Temple of the Inscriptions, named for the hieroglyphics found inside. These hieroglyphic panels described the family tree of King Pakal, and are now in the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
In 1952, the tomb of King Pakal was discovered deep within the temple. The crypt is unfortunately closed to the public, and much of the tomb has also been moved to Mexico City.
The crypt was accessed by a descending stone staircase, the entrance of which had been carefully hidden by the builders. The Temple of the Inscriptions seems to be the only temple in Mexico built specifically as a tomb. The archaeologist who made the important discovery, Alberto Ruz Lhuller, is buried opposite the temple.
To the right of the Temple of the Inscriptions is Temple 13, in which archaeologists recently discovered the richly supplied burial of another important person, accompanied by an adult female and an adolescent. Some of the artifacts found in this tomb are on display in the museum.
From here, the main pathway leads next to the impressive Palace, which has a unique tower that almost looks Chinese. Along the east edge of Palace is the most visible of the many aqueduct channels that run throughout the site. It is elaborately vaulted and 2.5 meters in height.
A pathway between the Palace and the Temple of the Inscriptions leads to another important group of monuments: the Temple of the Sun, the Temple of the Foliated Cross, the Temple of the Cross, and Temple 14.
 Relief in the museum. Photo: Jacob Rus. |
This group of temples, now in various stages of reconstruction, was built by Pakal's son, Chan-Bahlum, who is usually depicted with six toes. Chan-Bahlum's plaster mask was found in Temple 14 next to the Temple of the Sun, and archaeologists are hoping to find his tomb in the Temple of the Sun.
Left from the Palace is the North Group, also undergoing reconstruction. This includes a Ball Court, the Temple of the Count, and several tombs that were full of offerings. Inscriptions found in this group give the lineages of at least 12 kings.
Just past the North Group is a pathway that leads down a jungle hillside, with benches and small reconstructed temples along the way. Monkeys and parrots can often be spotted in the foliage. The path leads about 1/2 mile to the small site museum, which is worth a look. The museum's exhibits include artifacts excacvated from Palenque tombs and are attractively displayed. Explanations in Spanish and English provide an idea of what this great city was like at its peak. From the museum, minibuses take visitors back into the village.
Location Map
Location map and satellite view of the ruins of Palenque. Using the buttons on the left, zoom in for a closer look or zoom out to get your bearings. Click and drag the map to move around. You can explore all of Mexico from space on our Mexico Satellite Map.
Getting There
Palenque is 5 hours from San Cristobal by car or bus, and passes through lush mountain scenery. Buses also connect Palenque with Tuxtla (6 1/2 hr.), Campeche (six per day, 5 hr.), Villahermosa (nine per day, 2 hr.), and Mérida (two per day, 9 hr.).
The ruins of Palenque are located about a mile from the city of the same name. Minibuses run between the city center and the ruins every 10 minutes between 6am and 6pm.
Quick Facts
| Names: | Palenque (Spanish, "stockade of wood"); Lakam Ha (original Maya name, "big water"); Otolum (Chol Maya, "fortified place") |
| Type of site: | Mayan ruins |
| Dates: | 300-900 AD (peaked 600-700) |
| Size: | Entire site: 25 square miles (65 km²) (less than 35% excavated) Temple of the Inscriptions: 75 feet (23 m) high |
| World Heritage: | 1987, #411 |
| Location: | Just outside the city of Palenque, Chiapas, Mexico |
| Hours: | Site and visitor center: daily 8-4:45 Museum: Tues-Sun, 10-5 (included in the price of admission) |
| Cost: | $5 |
Sources
- Palenque: Official Homepage of the Archaeological Excavations
- Frommer's Cancun, Cozumel and the Yucatan (2006).
- Pre-Hispanic City and National Park of Palenque - UNESCO World Heritage List
- Travelers' Reviews of Palenque - TripAdvisor
- Palenque Travel Forum - TripAdvisor
- Mayan Religion - ReligionFacts
