Mt. Fuji

Mt. Fuji at sunrise as seen from Kawaguchiko. Photo under GFDL.

A summer view of Mt. Fuji. Photo © Sacredsites.com.

Torii (shrine gate) near the summit of Mt. Fuji. Photo under GFDL.

At 3776 meters, Mount Fuji (Fuji-san in Japanese) is the highest mountain in Japan. Visible from Tokyo on a clear day, the mountain is located to the west of Tokyo on the main island of Honshu.

Mt. Fuji is surrounded by five lakes: Lake Kawaguchiko, Lake Yamanakako, Lake Saiko, Lake Motosuko and Lake Shojiko. It is part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park.

The yearly "official" mountain climbing season is from the start of July to the end of August. Thousands will climb Mt. Fuji during this two-month period. Most climb during the night to watch the sunrise the next morning.

History

Mt. Fuji is an attractive volcanic cone and a frequent subject of Japanese art. The most renowned work is Ukiyo-e painter Hokusai's masterpiece 36 views of Mt. Fuji. It is also mentioned in Japanese literature throughout the ages and the subject of many poems.

A sacred mountain since ancient times, Mt. Fuji's summit was forbidden to women until the Meiji Era. Today it is a popular tourist destination and a popular peak for climbers.

What to See

For merely seeing Mt. Fuji, it's better to maintain some distance. The most popular place for sightseeing tours of Fuji and surroundings is Hakone.

Once on the mountain the only way of getting around is on foot. The sole exception is horseback riding, available on the Fujiguchiko trail between the 5th and 7th stations only for the steep price of ¥12,000.

The thing to do on Mt. Fuji is, of course, to climb it, preferably overnight so you can reach the top in time to see the sunrise (go-raiko). Depending on your pace, the climb up will take 5 to 8 hours, and the descent another 3 to 4. As the Japanese say, a wise man climbs Fuji once and a fool twice, but the true wisdom of this phrase is usually only learned the hard way.

"No spot in this world can be more horrible, more atrociously dismal,
than the cindered tip of the Lotus as you stand upon it."
— Lafcadio Hearn (1898)

The official climbing season lasts for only two months, from July to August. Even during these months, when Tokyo often swelters in 40-degree heat, temperatures at the top can be below freezing at night and climbers must dress adequately.

Climbing outside the official season is not only technically illegal without police permission but extremely dangerous without alpine climbing experience and equipment. Nearly all facilities are closed in the off season. The weather, unpredictable any time of year, is downright vicious in the winter and there are cases of people being literally blown off the mountain by high winds.

Getting There

The quickest option for reaching the slopes of Mt. Fuji is to take the express bus from Shinjuku in Tokyo. The direct bus takes 2.5 hours, costs ¥2600, and takes you directly to the start of the climb at Kawaguchiko 5th Station.

Alternatively, you can go via the nearby town of Fujiyoshida, which you can reach by taking the JR Chuo line to Otsuki and changing to the Fujikyu line. The Fujikyu line passes through Fujiyoshida to Kawaguchiko, from where hourly buses (50 minutes, ¥1700) shuttle to the 5th Station.

For up to date information, the city of Fujiyoshida maintains a Fuji access page listing current routes and schedules.

The usual starting point is Kawaguchiko 5th Station (Kawaguchiko Go-gome, 2305m), which offers you a last chance to stock on supplies before heading out. The initial stretch through flowery meadows is pleasant enough, but the bulk of the hike is a dreary and interminable slog: the volcanic landscape consists of jagged red rock in varying sizes from dust to boulder, with the trail zigzagging left and right endlessly, and the hike just gets steeper and steeper as you progress. Actual rock climbing is not required, but you will wish to use your hands at some points.

The trail is well marked and in season you will find it difficult to get lost, as the trip is completed annually by 300,000 people and there may even be human traffic jams at some of the dicier spots. However, due to the danger of landslides do not venture beyond the trail; visibility may also be very rapidly reduced to near-zero if clouds roll in.

Once at the top, you will pass under a small torii gate and encounter a group of huts selling drinks and souvenirs; this being Japan, you will even find vending machines on the top of Mount Fuji. Yes, this is as anticlimactic as it sounds, but with any luck seeing the sunrise above the clouds will make up for it. You can also gaze into the long-dormant crater at the center of the mountain. Strictly speaking, this is not the highest point of the mountain; that honor goes to the meteorological station on the other side of the crater, an additional 30 minutes hike away and not really worth the trouble. A full circuit of the crater takes around an hour.

There is a separate path for descending down the mountain back to Kawaguchiko; be sure you take the right one! Do not attempt to run down the mountain; it's a long way to the nearest hospital, and you don't want to find out how much a helicopter medevac costs in Japan.

In addition to Kawaguchiko, there are three other Fifth Stations at Subashiri (1980 meters), Gotemba (1440 meters) and Fujinomiya (2400 meters). The Gotemba route is the longest and toughest, much of the climb being across an enormous sand field. Fujinomiya is the shortest route, but as it is on the "wrong" side you will not be able to see the sunrise before the summit.

Huts from 7th station onward also offer primitive accommodations; reservations are strongly recommended if you plan on staying in these. Prices are pretty much standardized at ¥5250 a night for a very cramped space (one tatami mat or less) shared with the halitosis, funky boot juice and snoring of 150-500 strangers, plus an optional ¥1050/2100 for one/two meals.

Hinode-kan (Kawaguchiko 7th Station, tel. 0555-24-6522) is notable primarily for having the only bilingual website on Mt. Fuji (but no regular bilingual staff). A stay costs ¥5250 per person, and there is space for about 200.
Fujisan Hotel (Kawaguchiko 8th Station, tel. 0555-22-0237) is the largest hut on the mountain with space for about 500. In two separate but nearby huts, it's a far cry from a hotel, but unlike most others English is spoken here.

A full list of huts (in English) with phone numbers is available here.

Mount Fuji is a real mountain and should be treated with respect. Near the top the air is noticeably thinner, which may cause altitude sickness and breathing difficulties. The hike to the top is taxing, but hypothermia strikes when waiting for sunrise at the goal, while injuries typically occur during the descent phase when you're tired. Especially after heavy rains landslides are also a possibility. Every year, several inadequately-prepared people die on Fuji.

Mt. Fuji Day Tours
Mount Fuji - Japan-Guide.com
Resource Guide to Japanese Pilgrims & Pilgrimages - A-Z Photo Dictionary of Japanese Buddhism and Shinto