Chiesa della Martorana, Palermo, Sicily
The Baroque facade and graceful Norman campanile of La Martorana.
Photo by James Macdonald.
Golden mosaics of the interior. Photo © Paradoxplace.com.
The cupola, with mosaic of Christ. Photo by Michael Wilson.
Mosaic of the Nativity of Christ. Photo by Michael Wilson.
Mosaic of apostles. Photo by Michael Wilson.
The interior, decorated for a wedding. Photo by Erik Ogan.
Baroque altar in the east end. Photo by Cate Fuller.
Distinguished by an elegant Norman campanile, the Chiesa della Martorana in Palermo dates from 1143 and is famed for its spectacular mosaics. Its official name is Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio (St. Mary of the Admiral) but it is most commonly known as "La Martorana."
History
La Martorana was built in 1143 and dedicated to St. Mary. The "Admiral" part of the name derives from the founder the church, George of Antioch - he was the admiral of the Norman King Roger. The church's other name comes from Eloisa Martorana, who founded a nearby Benedictine convent in 1194.
The famed mosaics of La Martorana are original to the design, dating also from 1143. They were overseen by George of Antioch himself, who was of Greek descent and loved Byzantine mosaics. Scholars think the craftsmen who designed these mosaics also did the mosaic work in the Cappella Palatina.
The church has seen its share of history over the years: it was in La Martorana that Sicily's noblemen convened to offer the crown to Peter of Aragon. The facade and interior were altered considerably in 1588, during the baroque period, but thankfully the glorious mosaics survive intact and on full display.
What to See
The graceful bell tower is original, dating from the 12th century. The facade is a baroque renovation of the original Norman front. Entrance is through a beautiful portico with a trio of ancient columns and double arch openings.
Glittering Norman-Byzantine mosaics cover the interior, including on and around the columns that hold up the principal cupola. Even after 850 years, the colors remain vibrant: the golden background is pierced with streaks of spring green, ivory, azure blue, and red.
High along the western wall is some of the oldest and best-preserved mosaic artwork of the Norman period. Just inside the entrance is an interesting mosaic of King Roger II being crowned by Christ. Roger is dressed in a jeweled Byzantine stole, reflecting the Norman court's penchant for all things Byzantine. Archangels along the ceiling wear the same stole.
Another mosaic panel shows a kneeling George of Antioch, founder of the church, dedicating La Martorana to the Virgin.
Dominating the dome is a mosaic of a gentle-looking Christ, seated on a throne and surrounded by angels. The Madonna and the Apostles are shown off to the sides.
During your visit to La Martorana, obtain a key from the custodian sitting at a tiny table to your right as you enter the chapel - this allows entry into the little Chiesa di San Cataldo next door.
Quick Facts
| Names: | Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio (St. Mary of the Admiral); Chiesa della Martorana; La Martorana |
| Type of site: | Church |
| Faith: | Roman Catholic |
| Status: | Active |
| Dates: | 1143 |
| Architecture: | Norman with Baroque renovations |
| Location: | Piazza Bellini 2, next to Piazza Pretoria, Palermo, Sicily |
| Phone: | 091-6161692 |
| Bus: | 101 or 102 |
| Hours: | Mon-Sat 9:30am-1pm and 3:30-6:30pm; Sun 8:30am-1pm |
| Cost: | Free |
| Tip: | Visit early in the morning for the best light on the mosaics |
Location Map
Below is a location map and aerial view of La Martorana. Using the buttons on the left, zoom in for a closer look or zoom out to get your bearings. Click and drag the map to move around. For a larger view, see our Palermo Map or get our free Google Earth download.
Sources
