Byzantine Churches, Naxos Island

There is a remarkable number of small Byzantine chapels on Naxos, most dating from the 9th to the 15th centuries, many in or near some of the island's loveliest villages. The prosperity of Naxos during this period of Byzantine and Venetian rule meant that sponsorship existed for elaborate frescoes, many of which can still be seen on the interior walls of the chapels.

Restoration has revealed multiple layers of frescoes, and whenever possible the more recent ones have been removed intact during the process of revealing the initial paintings. Several frescoes removed in this way from the churches of Naxos can be seen at the Byzantine Museum in Athens.

Anyone with a particular interest in these churches (of which we mention only a few) would enjoy Paul Hetherington's The Greek Islands: Guide to the Byzantine and Medieval Buildings and their Art.

Just south of Moni, near the middle of the island, is the important 6th-century monastery of Panayia Drossiani ("Our Lady of Refreshment"), which contains some of the finest (and oldest, dating from the 7th century) frescoes on Naxos. The icon of the Virgin is credited with ending a severe drought on the island shortly after the frescoes were painted. The church is all that survives of what we are told was an extensive monastery -- what an appealing place to have led a contemplative life! Visits are allowed at all hours during the day; when the door is locked, ring the church bell to summon the caretaker (remember to dress appropriately). To get here, drive about 1km (1/2 mile) south from Moni and look for the low, gray rounded form of the church on your left.

About 8km (5 miles) from Hora along the road to Sangri, you'll see a sign on the left for the 8th-century Byzantine cathedral of Ayios Mamas, which fell into disrepair during the Venetian occupation but has recently been partly restored. The view alone from this charming church is worth the trip.

Sangri (the Greek contraction of Sainte Croix) today is made up of three villages, and has the ruins of a medieval castle. The church of Ayios Nikolaos, which dates to the 13th century, has well-preserved frescoes, with a lovely figure of the personified River Jordan. To see them, ask around to see what villager has the keys.

About 1km ( 1/2 mile) west of Sangri on the road to Halki is the Kaloritsa chapel, a cave inside the hilltop ruins of a Byzantine chapel. The earliest of the frescoes seen here date from the 10th century. The chapel is accessible only on foot.

You could cheerfully spend a week seeing the Byzantine churches of Naxos; you can see a handful in a day. Getting to each one involves at least some walking, and some time in finding the caretaker to see the interiors. Alas, these churches are kept locked, due to increasing problems with theft, although the caretaker often makes an early morning or early evening visit.

Main source: Frommer's Greece, 4th ed.