Rouen Cathedral

The great Gothic Cathedral of Rouen. Photo Nikolai Ormazablev.

Transept with carved portal. Photo Nikolai Ormazablev.

Monet's famous painting of Rouen Cathedral (1893). Musee d'Orsay.

Newly-cleaned facade, full of statues. Photo Dom.

Gothic nave. Photo poluz.

Vaults at the tower crossing. Photo Allart Knoop.

The Booksellers' Staircase. Photo Ben Bawden.

Rouen has been dubbed the "City of a Hundred Spires," for many of its important edifices are churches. Towering above them all is the highest spire in France, erected in 1876, a cast-iron tour-de-force rising 490 ft above the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen. Claude Monet immortalized Rouen's cathedral (particularly the facade) in his paintings.

History

Originally consecrated in 1063, Rouen Cathedral was replaced after a devastating fire in 1200; only the left-hand spire survived the flames. Most of the present cathedral was built in the 13th century.

Construction on the imposing 250-ft steeple on the right, known as the Tour de Beurre (Butter Tower), was begun in the 15th century and completed in the 17th. Its name comes from its funding by donations from wealthy citizens in return for the privilege of continuing to eat butter during Lent. (Bourges Cathedral also has a Tour de Beurre.)

Other towers, spires and vertical extensions were added over the years, but the overall appearance still reflects the 13th-century Gothic masterpiece most of all. Thanks to its great spire, Rouen Cathedral was the tallest building in the world (at 151 m) from 1876 to 1880.

The cathedral was bombed in 1944, taking several direct hits that narrowly missed destroying key pillars.

What to See

A masterpiece of lacy stonework, Rouen cathedral is topped by the aforementioned Tour de Beurre and the Tour Lanterne (Lantern Tower), which contains a carillon of 56 bells, utilizes 740 tons of iron and bronze, and rises to almost 150m (500 ft.).

The main door, Porte Central, is embellished with sculptures (some decapitated) depicting the Family Tree of Jesus. The 12th-century Porte St-Jean and Porte St-Etienne flank it.

Inside, the 13th century choir has 14 soaring pillars and pointed arcades. The stalls have misericords carved with 15th-century depictions of everyday life and various beasts. The 13th-century chancel is beautiful, with simple lines.

Other interior highlights include vibrant stained glass depicting the crucified Christ (restored after heavy damage during World War II) and massive stone columns topped by some intriguing carved faces.

The first flight of the famous Escalier de la Librairie (Booksellers' Stairway), attributed to Guillaume Pontifs, rises from a tiny balcony just to the left of the transept. It is adorned with a stained-glass rose window that dates in part from the 1500s.

Don't miss the Chapelle de la Vierge, adorned with Renaissance tombs of the cardinals d'Amboise. The ambulatory and crypt contain the tombs of French royalty stretching as far back as Duke Rollo, who died "enfeebled by toil" in 933 AD.

The most famous permanent resident here is the lion heart of Richard the Lion-Hearted of England (1157-99), a token of his affection for the people of Rouen. The rest of him lies next to his father at Fontevraud Abbey.

Behind the cathedral is the Palais de l'Archevêché (Archbishop's Palace), which was bombed in the war. The broken arches and rosette windows witnessed the trial of Joan of Arc in 1431, as well as her rehabilitation in 1456.

Quick Facts

Names:	Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen; Rouen Cathedral
Type of site:	Cathedral
Faith:	Roman Catholic
Status:	Active
Date:	13th century
Architecture:	Gothic
Address:	Place de la Cathédrale, Rouen, France
Phone:	02-35-71-00-48
Hours:	Mon-Sat 8am-7pm; Sun 8am-6pm, closed during Mass and on bank holidays.
Cost:	Free
Tip:	You can enjoy a ringside view of the cathedral's famous facade and a coffee at the Brasserie Paul, just opposite.

Location Map

Below is a location map and aerial view of Rouen Cathedral. Using the buttons on the left, zoom in for a closer look or zoom out to get your bearings. Click and drag the map to move around. For a larger view, see our Rouen Map or get our free Google Earth download.

Sources

Darwin Porter, Frommer's France 2007 (October 2006).
Rough Guide to France 9 (April 2005), 395.