Gurk Cathedral & Shrine of St. Hemma, Gurk
Aerial view of Gurk and its cathedral. Photo © Dom zu Gurk.
West front of Gurk Cathedral. Photo by cdaros.
Gurk Cathedral Crypt. Photo © Österreich Werbung/Trumler.
Fresco in Episcopal Chapel; the Lenten Veil. Photos © Dom zu Gurk.
Frescoes in in the cathedral. Photo by Markus Schroeder.
Interactive satellite map of Gurk Cathedral. For a larger view,
see our Austria Map or Google Earth download.
In the green valleys of southern Austria, near Klagenfurt, is the pilgrimage town of Gurk. Here, a beautiful 12th-century cathedral is packed with the finest examples of religious art and shelters the shrine of Hemma, a beloved Austrian saint.
History
The Shrine of St. Hemma in Gurk has been a popular pilgrimage destination since the 11th century. Devotion to the sacred site remains strong, especially after Hemma's canonization in 1938 and a visit from Pope John Paul II in 1988.
Hemma (also called Emma) was born of a noble family in the late 10th century and raised at the court of Emperor St. Henry II. By all accounts, she was an energetic and pious woman who was generous with her wealth.
Hemma married Count William of Sanngan, and they had two children together. But before long, tragedy struck when her husband died on the way back from a pilgrimage to Rome. Twenty years later, she had a second heartbreak when one of her sons was killed in battle.
From that moment on, Hemma decided to devote her life to God. She began distributing her large inheritance even more generously to the poor and founded several religious houses.
In Gurk, Hemma built a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which was later enlarged to become Gurk Cathedral. She also built a convent for Benedictine nuns in 1043. Hemma spent her last days in that convent, although it is uncertain whether she actually became a nun herself.
Upon Hemma's death in 1045, she was buried at the church in Gurk. Her tomb attracted devotees almost immediately, for she was widely known for her generosity and religious life. Miracles were soon attributed to her, and the Church beatified her in 1287.
But it wasn't until the 20th century that Hemma received her greatest honors: official canonization in 1938 (with the distinction of sharing her feast day, June 29, with Peter and Paul); and a pilgrimage visit to Gurk from Pope John Paul II on June 25, 1988, during which he celebrated Mass before 80,000 pilgrims.
The cathedral of Gurk was built between 1140 and 1200 on the site of Hemma's church, and the saint's remains were placed in the crypt under the choir. Various additions and embellishments to the cathedral were made in the Gothic and baroque styles.
What to See
The 12th century Gurk Cathedral is regarded as the most outstanding example of Romanesque architecture in Austria.
The austere exterior features twin west towers (135 feet high), to which onion domes were added in 1682. A three-aisled basilica with three apses, the cathedral has had reticulated vaulting since the Late Middle Ages, with fan vaulting in the nave and transept.
The barrel-vaulted porch, with a doorway of 1200, has been enclosed since the Gothic period, when its interior was richly decorated with wall paintings and stained glass (1348). The paintings on the north and south wall of the porch show scenes from the Old and New Testaments.
The cruciform baroque altar (1626-38) is a sight to behold, adorned with 72 statues and 82 faces of angels. In its main niche rests a portrayal of The Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The "Pieta" is by the Viennese sculptor Georg Raphael Donner.
During Holy Week the altar is covered by a Lenten veil (1458), which shows 99 scenes from the Old and New Testaments.
Above the south portal there are carvings of Christ the Savior, while those above the central apse to the east depict a lion and an evil reptile. The Samson Doorway, on the left wall of the nave, dates from 1200.
The interior is decorated with impressive frescoes dating from the 13th century, including depictions of St Christopher (c. 1250; near the sacristy door), the Downfall of Saul (c. 1380), Death and Assumption of the Virgin (c. 1390). Six painted wooden reliefs depict the legend of St Hemma.
The Cathedral Crypt (1174) can also be seen only on conducted tours. It lies under the choir, has a hundred columns, and contains the beautifully decorated sarcophagus (the "Hemmagruft") of St Hemma (died 1045) under an altar of c. 1720.
The Episcopal Chapel in the Gurk Cathedral's west gallery is also accessible only by guided tour; access is by way of the staircase in the south tower. The chapel has some exceptionally well-preserved frescos (c. 1200) of scenes from Paradise (including the Creation of Man), Heavenly Jerusalem, the Prophets, Symbols of the Evangelists and The Virgin Mary on King Solomon's Throne.
Getting There
Gurk is about 35 miles north of Klagenfurt. By car from Klagenfurt, take Route 83 north, turning left on highway 93 and heading west (11 miles) to Gurk. The nearest train station is a tiny one at Treibach-Althofen, 10 miles from Gurk. Don't be tempted to get off at the larger St. Veit an der Glan station, which is both further away from Gurk and has less convenient bus service. There is hourly bus service to Gurk from Treibach-Althofen train station.
Quick Facts
| Names: | Gurk Cathedral; Dom zu Gurk; Shrine of St. Hemma |
| Type of site: | Cathedral; Catholic shrine |
| Address: | Domkustodie Salvatorianerkolleg, Domplatz 11, 9342 Gurk |
| Phone: | 04266 8236 and 04266 8557 0 |
| Fax: | 04266 8236 16 |
| URL: | www.dom-zu-gurk.at |
| Hours: | Mid-April to end of October: 9-6, November to mid-April: 10-5 |
| Tours: | Daily at 1pm (reserve ahead to be safe) |
| Cost: | Free |
- Kevin J. Wright, Catholic Shrines of Central and Eastern Europe (1999), 19-22.
- Gurk Cathedral - PlanetWare
- Dom zu Gurk - Official Website (German)
More Information
- Diocese of Gurk - Catholic Encyclopedia (1910)
